Ilha de Mozambique
Ilha de Mozambique (Mozambique Island) is an island in the Nampula Province in Northern Mozambique with a historical heritage that's unmatched in the rest of Mozambique, and indeed the rest of Africa. It was the capital of Mozambique for nearly four centuries under Portuguese colonization before the move to Lourenco Marques (now Maputo), and had been used as a major base for the Arab traders since around the 8th century, long before the arrival of the Portuguese. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The tiny island is only 3km long and very narrow. It's connected by a concrete bridge with the mainland and is said to be crowded by 16000 inhabitants, most of them living in bustling Macuti Town. Stone Town occupies the northern half of the island and is much grander than Macuti town in the south, but both are UNESCO listed because of their significant architecture and cultural tradition.
Ilha can easily be reached by road from Nacala, and turn off at the signpost for Ilha de Mozambique (which is in Monapo). It'll take around 2 hours and the road is good. When you get there you'll need to cross the causeway which costs about Mts 5,000.
If you're taking a chapa they leave from Ave de Trabhadores in Nampula near the railway station and cost Mts 80,000.
Ilha's is fairly small - 3.2 km long and only 500 metres wide. It takes about a 30 to 40 minute walk from end to end. With improvements to the roads and lanes on the island bike riding is becoming increasingly popular with a number of places now having bikes available to rent. There is a bike hire stand outside Escondidinho Hotel, some hostels rent out bikes and Ilha Blue can rent you a classic Hero Bike, a Miss India or an ex Royal Mail Pashley cargo bike. Ilha Blue are better known for their local led tours which take around 3 hours and cover every historical site, show you the best cafes and bars as well as beaches, shops and banks
Everywhere. Ilha's a magical mix of colonial Portuguese and old Swahili architecture. It basically divides into two halves - the old Stone Town in the north and the "Reed Town" in the south which is set down from the main streets.
The museum is in the old Palácio dos Capitães-Generais, a big red building up in Stone Town. In the same building is a tourist information office that sells really good street maps and has all sorts of other information about the various restaurants and pensões on the island. It's well worth heading here as soon as you arrive.
Also worth a visit is the fort at the northern tip of the island, which contains the Church of Nossa Senhora do Baluarte, almost certainly the oldest surviving European building in the southern hemisphere, dating back to 1522. Be sure you pay the right attendant, or you will have to pay the entrance fee twice: Ask for a entrance ticket, if you don't get one, don't pay.
The dive centre at the northern end of the island just down from the fort is part of a bigger swimming pool and restaurant development. Unfortunately construction work on this site has stopped so who knows if and when it will ever be finished.
You can take boat trips or just laze on the beach. If you're feeling adventurous take a traditional dhow over to the mainland at Cabeciera where there is a beautiful lagoon or Carusca a popular restaurant and bar on a truly magnificent beach. Its easy to arrange dhow trips to the nearby islands of Goa and Sete Paus. Sena island (also known as Ilha Das Cobras) is a bit more difficult to visit because of the need to arrive and leave when the tide is very low and is best visited as an overnight camping trip. This also gives time to visit the lagoon which is a hidden gem
Sea Kayaking is beginning to take off and there are still quite a few good snorkeling sites between 50 and 300 meters off shore. The Pontao (pier) is a great place to swim from with surprisingly good snorkeling including a sunken barge
- Ilha Blue, Rua dos arcas (Stone Town), . The island's only professional tour operator and a great place to collect general information edit
- Books and Bottles, Rua Dos Arcas (Stone Town). As the name says, books and bottles. A wide range of new and used books in various languages as well as wine, souvenirs and crafts edit
Local Barackas are affordable with seafood and other dishes. The ones on the road that forms the divide between Stonetown and Macuti Town cater for foreigners and locals and are good for a lazy lunch or a busy taste of nightlife. In stonetown there is Ancora D'oro, Escondidinho, Reliquias, and Villa Sands that are more focused on tourists and expats. Also you can find a number of local places serving fish and rice or chima for a very low price.
Plenty of places to drink. The rooftop in Bar Flor is very popular as are the Barackas, Ruby's and villa Sands. Miraponte near the bridge is open late and a good place for a dance. Also look out for beach baracka parties organised by the same young men you meet selling dhow trips. These are very cheap and good fun although you need to be patient because food is served only once everybody has arrived
- Casa Luis, Traversa dos Formos. Dorm and private rooms with small breakfast from 12$. Laundry, cooking, air-condition etc. for pay. Very friendly owner. Located a bit outside from the main attractions in the Mud Town but just one minute from the green mosque. For reservation, information about ilha this is the phone number of the owner: +258-82-4367570.
- Casa Branca, Rua dos combatantes, Stone Town, (on the East side of the island near the Luis de Camoes statue), tel: 06 610076. A very popular place with a few rooms for rent in an atmospheric 300 year old house. It is said that some rooms have marvellous views. $20-25 incl breakfast. Advance bookings are advised.
- Omuhi'piti tel: +258 26 610101. Close to the fort in the north of Stone Town, it has now reopened following refurbishment and is the nicest (and only) hotel on the island. Air conditioned rooms. Prices start at MT2,600/night.
- Hotel Escondidinho, Stone town, Praca das Amoreiras, near the Marinha, ☎ +258-26-610078. Tastefully renovated double storey building with 10 rooms, swimming pool and restaurant edit
- Casa de Hospedes Terraço das Quitandas, Rua da Republica, Stone Town, (west side of the island next to Palacio de S. Paulo/Museum and between Reliquias Restaurant and Customs House building), phone="+258 26 610115" cell: +258 846131243.
- Ruby's Backpackers is right in the middle of stonetown. Its in a renovated hindu merchants house and is very atractive and cosy. It's very popular so its often booked out.
- The Quitanda´s Terrace Guest House, is separated from the beach by a garden outside, has six exotic decorated suites, individually decorated, offering you every comfort in an air conditioned with king-size beds or twin size bed, private bathroom, and much space in an atmospheric 300 year old house. Rates from about 75 p.p.s incl breakfast. Advance bookings advised. http://www.terracodasquitandas.com/
The cheapest option is the camp site on the mainland next to the bridge. Self catering is possible from the nearby shops. $4/person.